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Fleece jacket: Fabric info and buyer’s guide

6 minutes read
What sort of fleece jacket do I need?. What type of fleece gives extra warmth? What defines quality?

Fleece jackets are warm, cuddly, quick-drying, breathable, making them ideal companions on the mountain and for everyday wear. Chiefly, the benefit of fleece fabric is its effectiveness at trapping body heat and sustaining warmth. As a synthetic material, fleece is generally made out of polyester. Sometimes fibre blends can be found, which may also consist of wool or polyamide, which is also highly durable and moisture-resistant. Fleece will never let you down in the cold, and due to its price-performance ratio, fleece earns its points as an outdoor garment favourite.

Weight: 100, 200 and 300

The strength of fleece lies above all in a good heat-to-weight ratio. | Photo: Vaude / Mayerhoffer
The strength of fleece lies above all in a good heat-to-weight ratio. | Photo: Vaude / Mayerhoffer

Fleeces are categorised by weight. To help you differentiate between them, it’s an indication of its weight and thickness. It basically refers to grams per square meter for the fabric used. 100 (100 grams) is a low bulk, very lightweight fabric that is more suited to summer use, high-pulse activities or as a lightweight second layer. 200 (200 grams) is the most versatile, mid-weight and 300 (300 grams) is a heavyweight where warmth is the most critical priority (think arctic).

Microfleece? Stretch fleece? Coral fleece? Knit fleece?

These are certain types of fabric finishes for certain activities. Coral fleece has a very thick, deep pile that usually costs more to manufacture. A stretch fleece does as the name suggests and won’t restrict your movements – one example is the Mountain Equipment Couloir Hooded Fleece Jacket. Stretch jackets usually have a contoured fit to the body and are intended for high-pulse physical activity. Microfleece is excellent and is mostly used as a base layer. It is suitable for situations where fast moisture transport is required, and less insulation is needed. Norrona’s Bitihorn Warm 1 microfleece Jacket is a prime example. Knit fleece can be found mainly in leisurewear, such as the Arcteryx  Laina Coat for Women. It has a pleasant surface, which resembles a knit sweater. These are more suited to lifestyle urban wear.

Best of both worlds – fleece combined with wool

Wool primarily yields a delightful feeling on the skin. You won’t overheat as quickly, and when it’s wet, it doesn’t feel wet. A polyester outer, which is resistant to abrasion, making it backpack compatible, quick-drying and stretchy. Summing it up, it’s the best of both worlds – a combination of robustness and fast drying and comfort. Ortovox fleece jackets with merino wool lining are a perfect example.

What is the advantage of fleece over wool and cotton?

Fleece dries faster. This makes it suitable for sweaty sporting activities. A ski tourer won’t grab wool apparel when ski touring, simply due to its saturation limit. The synthetic fibres are more robust, abrasion-resistant, less susceptible to mechanical stress, such as a backpack or climbing harness. They are stretchy and still hold their shape well. The downside is that synthetic fibres get smelly faster. Also, synthetic doesn’t have the same comfortable sensation that merino wool leaves on the skin; one quickly realises that it’s plastic you are wearing. Fleece can also attract static.

How does a fleece jacket hold up to breathability compared to natural fabrics?

It depends on the processing it’s gone through. The denser and deeper the pile, the less breathability it will have. Fleece wicks moisture away from the body relatively quickly, but the thicker the material, the less apt this function is. Fleece jackets with a brushed inner lining tend to dry faster. This works like a blotter and draws moisture away from the body. Cotton can’t compete with that. It hardly breathes and basically swells up like a sponge leaving you wet with perspiration.

Quality differences

If a men’s fleece jacket cost 30 euros and another 200 euros, there must be a difference somewhere, right? The difference lies in the quality of the polyester. Immediately after purchase, you won’t see the difference in quality. However, after about 5 to 10 washes, inferior fleece fabrics tend to lose shape and form small nodules (pilling). High-quality fleece jackets have unequalled longevity. Fleece fabric such as Polartec ( practically invented fleece) provides a solid, reliable quality always. One example of a high-quality Polartec Powerstrech fleece is the Power Houdi from Houdini.

Layering up – which layer is the fleece?

In the outdoor industry, most of us have heard of the so-called layering system. The first layer is a base layer that contours directly to the skin and transports moisture; the object of the second layer lies in the thermal insulation, and the third layer protects against wind and rain. What layer is the fleece jacket best suited to? Clearly, the second layer and as a first layer only very occasionally. Stretch fleece such as Polartec® Power Stretch can certainly be used as a first layer, say on expeditions when extremely cold. Mostly a fleece jacket is worn as a second layer or mid-layer.

When a fleece works best and when it doesn’t

That really depends on what type of fleece you have at hand. A technical fleece holds less warmth compared to, say, a high-pile fleece jacket. Classic fleece jackets are susceptible to abrasion, such as wear and tear from wearing a backpack. In this case, it’s better to throw a light vest over the top or fleece with a flat, smooth surface. Another downside is when you are gone for longer spouts, and there’s no chance of washing the fleece jacket – you could find yourself quickly as an unpopular trekking partner!

More details and highlights to look for in a fleece jacket

Thumb loops. These can help prevent the sleeves from riding up; great if you’re cycling. They will also add a boost of warmth if you forget your gloves. Hoods are another highlight; most performance fleece jackets today feature a helmet-compatible hood.  Stretch bindings on collars, cuffs and hem can also be extra comfy and provide a better hold. And if you’re thinking of using the jacket in a layered system, ask yourself the question: zip-up jacket or pullover fleece. Sometimes, too many zips can be bothersome if worn with other items of clothing.

Especially for strenuous outdoor activity fleece jackets are indispensable. | Photo: Bergzeit
Especially for strenuous outdoor activity, fleece jackets are indispensable. | Photo: Bergzeit

Fleece innovation and quality

Fleece manufacturers such as Polartec and Pontetorto are the most renowned. You can’t go past them for quality, and both are solidly reliable. Larger outdoor manufacturers and brands sometimes have their own patented fleece fabric, which can be excellent. Scandinavian companies such as Haglöfs and Peak Performance and other labels such as Arcteryx and Outdoor Research are also known for their high-quality fleece jackets. Vaude and Mammut are a few of the better known European companies that have also pathed the way with their own version of fleece fabrics. Both of these labels put a strong emphasis on environmental aspects and use recycled polyester.

What should I look out for when buying a fleece jacket?

The first thing to ask is: How do I intend to wear the jacket? For what purpose? How warm should it be? Will I wear it as a first or second layer? Do I need a movement-friendly stretch fleece, a thicker, deep pile coral fleece or a functional microfleece? Or perhaps a polyester/merino wool blend. Then, of course, the jacket must fit well, sleeves and shoulders are not too tight, and the back not too short. That’s it! Easy!

Fleece jackets at a glance:

Advantages Disadvantages
high insulation due to excellent warmth/weight ratio Unpleasant odours can develop during heavy physical activity
It works well as stretch fabric and holds its shape well It doesn’t feel as pleasant on the skin as wool
Superb moisture transport Particularly high-pile surfaces are susceptible to abrasion, such as the rubbing of a backpack.
Durable and with the correct outer surface, also compatible with backpacks Prone to static

 

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Bergzeit Journal - Your Blog for Mountain Sports & The Great Outdoors

Welcome to the Bergzeit Journal! Enjoy our product reviews, buyers' guides, care instructions, packing lists and general tips & tricks for the great outdoors. The Bergzeit Journal editorial team, together with many external authors and mountaineering experts, provide insightful articles on all important mountain and outdoor topics, as well as current industry and background knowledge.